Venezia!

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Over the past two weeks since we have arrived in Venice I been absorbing the city and mulling over what I enjoy and what has been difficult about being a traveler here.  When arriving here, immediately after stepping out of the train station, you are confronted with the first of many beautiful scenes of the canal. Highlighting one of the main attractions to this place. It is beautiful. There are so many picturesque places throughout the city whether this is a view down a lonely calm canal or the view from the academia bridge or San Marco square. There is an abundance of century old buildings to see and explore, many of these beautiful old churches that are open to the public. Venice is also a  cultural center for the arts in terms of the magnitude of  historical and contemporary art to see. Already we have seen so much, obviously at the biennial, but also other museums, the Peggy Guggenheim, The Academia , a tour of the doges palace…. the list of things to see goes on. So in terms of being in the right place to see art Venice is spot on, but when attempting to step away from the arts and focusing on  what it is like to live in Venice one finds that it is difficult to engage with. The population of Venice only counting Venetians is about 60,000 and declining while there is an estimated 55,000 tourists who visit every day, which means many days there are most likely more tourists than residents. This has created an interesting dichotomy where the residents are often resentful of tourists for overtaking their city while at the same time require tourists to maintain business. This also means that many of the industries here cater to tourists. This means as a visitor you encounter an abundance of commercial goods, in a pessimistic tone Venice is becoming a theme park where people can easily quickly consume “quintessential Venice” this includes a gondola ride and a visit to San Marcos Square and maybe purchasing some Morano glass as a souvenir. Now I am not saying that these things in themselves are inherently bad, but rather am critical of the highly developed consumer culture that plays out in much of the city. With all of this in mind it helps me better understand my experience in Venice so far. For the most part I haven’t felt particularity welcomed here accept when I am purchasing something. I even got quiet rudely kicked out of a glass shop after the owner told me to come back when I am rich. While I know this was an exceptionally poor impression I think it still points to an at least subtle trend that I am only really welcomed here in as far as I can help contribute to the economy otherwise locals don’t want anything to do with me. I understand the locals frustration with this ever increasing trend of tourists flooding the city to consumer the place that they live.  I also think that this experience as not particularity welcomed here as a foreigner is not indicative of the rest of Italy, while I haven’t spent significant time in other places, I imagine that places that are not as highly visited by outsiders may be more intrigued in interacting with foreigners. As a tourist myself, I no doubt also came to experience many of the touristy things as well, but I am  also looking for local experiences, to at least get a taste of the life’s of the people who live here. I think that the frontal image of tourist Venice can make getting this experience more allusive, but opportunities are still here. The other night we went to a public concert and while undoubtedly other tourists came for the show, many residence were there as well and it was nice to get a flavor of a summer night here. Also by wandering farthest away from the San Marco region and into the neighborhoods we can find a more local restaurant that predominantly residence go versus going to the tourist hot spot restaurants you can usually find on the main canals. Even with the difficulty to get a true Venetian experience, Venice is such a unique place that I would still highly recommend visiting to experience this amazing place.

 

https://www.theguardian.com/world/shortcuts/2016/sep/27/dont-look-now-venice-tourists-locals-sick-of-you-cruise-liners

One Comment Add yours

  1. Fred Hagstrom says:

    Hi

    A very big part of an OCS trip is understanding that OCS learning is very different from on campus learning. There is class time, reading etc, but if you are open to it, many small daily moments add up to what might be the most important part of off campus learning. Your piece exemplifies that. It might be a train ride, an exchange in a store, food, or watching children–anything like that can be very important in getting the most out of your trip. It is also very easy to forget this, and to travel in a way that precludes noticing these small moments. You have to stay alert, and this piece is a good example of that.

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